Dubai’s Michelin Moments

Let’s start with the big one.

There is no restaurant in Dubai more deserving of three Michelin stars than Trèsind Studio, and I couldn’t be happier for Chef Himanshu Saini, Vipin, and the entire team. I’ve been a vocal supporter since day one—long before the first star, long before Michelin even arrived in Dubai.

So, how did I miss this in my If I Were the Michelin Guide essay?

There’s an explanation.

Michelin’s internal politics are legendary. I genuinely didn’t think they’d award a three-star rating to an Indian restaurant in Dubai—just as they never have in London. It’s the same reason why Restaurant Sühring in Bangkok has never received three stars, even though by every measure, it should have. But politics aside, this is a monumental and long-overdue moment. Trèsind Studio is now the first Indian restaurant in the world to receive three Michelin stars—and it happened right here, in my city.

Chef Himanshu

The Other Shock: FZN

Before that announcement came the other major surprise of the night: FZN by Björn Frantzén receiving three Michelin stars.

Deserved? Without question.

Expected this soon? Not at all.

One of Michelin’s core criteria is consistency over time—typically assessed across at least a full year of operation. FZN earned this honor in under six months. Still, hats off to Chef Torsten Vildgaard and the entire team for achieving something extraordinary in record time.

And yes, Torsten is the brother of Chef Eric Kragh Vildgaard, who leads Jordnær—one of Denmark’s most celebrated restaurants, now officially holding three Michelin stars as of 2024. Two brothers. Two countries. Two restaurants at the pinnacle of world gastronomy. Remarkable.

The Frantzen reveal

A Rising Star: MANAO

Another personal favorite and early standout for me: MANAO.

Chef Abhiraj Khatwani not only earned his first Michelin star, but also won Young Chef of the Year. Both accolades are well deserved, and I expect big things from him.

He also has a secret weapon—Chef Mohamad Orfali and the Orfali Bros, who are his backers and partners in MANAO. Their shared fermentation lab, used by both MANAO and Orfali Bros., is housed right inside the restaurant.

If you haven’t read my full feature on MANAO, you’ll find it here on Substack. It’s worth the read.

Manao excellence

Where Bib Gourmand Falls Short

Let’s talk Bib Gourmand—my favorite part of any Michelin guide. These restaurants are the soul of a city’s dining culture: accessible, excellent, and beloved by locals.

But Dubai’s Bib list still needs serious work.

No overseas inspector, no matter how diligent, will have the local context to uncover the city’s true gems. We have exceptional chef-owned spots serving Iranian, Lebanese, Japanese, Peruvian, Mexican, BBQ, Turkish, Syrian, French, Argentinian—even Kenyan food—that deserve recognition.

Many of these restaurants operate under the radar and don’t engage in PR. Michelin needs to tap into local knowledge—whether by appointing regional inspectors or consulting credible voices from the community.

This section could be a goldmine. Right now, it’s just scratching the surface.

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One Last Question for Michelin

Here’s something no one talks about:

Why are no stars or awards ever removed in Dubai?

In other cities, chefs leave, standards slip, and stars are revoked—it’s part of the ecosystem. But in Dubai, it simply doesn’t happen.

Why?

The integrity of the guide depends on its willingness to reassess and, when necessary, revoke. Dubai should be no exception.